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I have just returned from two weeks holiday at the Grand Bahia Principe complex which is about 60 to 70 miles south of Cancun in Mexico. This complex which consist of three hotels is an excellent place for a holiday Just off the main highway south from Cancun, the complex is somewhat remote. Most land is inaccessible because of its private ownership or its impenetrable jungle
Consequently birdwatching was restricted to the hotel grounds or a walk south along the beach over very rough terrain. I did twice go for a walk off the complex into a small village two miles south of the hotel and along a path opposite the hotel entrance which was a public route to some caves (Aktun Chen). The land either side of this track is destined for development for houses and golf courses with several lakes
We arrived at Cancun airport just before dark on the 24th of September and noticed over 50 egrets beside the runway as the aeroplane taxied to the terminal. Initially I thought Cattle Egrets but they could well have been Snowy Egrets as these were the only egret that I spotted at the hotel
Sat in the airport bus we soon spotted Great Tailed Grackle and Grey-Breasted Martin flying about
Tuesday morning saw me waiting for dawn to see what was around us. The grounds of the Coba hotel were immaculate consisting of large areas of lawn, small areas of trees which generally were below the lawn level and areas of button mangrove
The two hour walk produced my first Black Vulture, Brown and Yucatan Jay, the stunningly coloured Hooded Oriel, Social Flycatcher and Yucatan Woodpeckers. The colours amazed me. Later in the day I saw Magnificent Frigatebird. Brown Pelican, Northern Rough-Winged Swallow and White-Winged Dove. First day without trying very hard and I indentified nine lifers and missed several others
On the second day I noticed an observation tower just outside the main reception of the Coba. This was about forty feet high and overlooked some mangrove and an area that is being reserved for wildlife (not very productive at present).
For a few days this tower was my main port of call until hotel staff started locking the gate between 18:00 and 09:00. The strangest bird I found here was three Plain Chachalacas. I had never heard of them before and hadn't even noticed them in the field guides. Other new birds were Bronzed Cowbird, Melodious Blackbird, Black Swift, White Collared Swift, Yellow- Bellied Elaenia, Tree Swallow and a Bay Brested Warbler. Again several other birds were not identfied including two herons which were flying into the sun when I noticed them
The third day saw me up the tower again when I saw Eastern Kingbird, Prothonotary Warbler, Grey Kingbird and a Ring-Billed Gull a fair distance out at sea
On the 28th I decided to have a walk down the highway and this is when I noticed all the private signs. Two miles down the road was a side road to a small village. Here I found a small reservoir presumably used for irrigation. There were several different species of wader here including Lesser Yellowlegs, Solitary Sandpiper and Least Sandpiper. Also noted here were Great Kiskadee and Yellow-Lored Parrots. The local mosquitos also noted me and I was bitten to hell despite covering myself in Jungle Juice. I didn't go back here because it wasn't a pleasant walk and it was extremely hot
The following day I had a walk south down the beach off the complex into a pleasant little bay. This was a fairly rough walk underfoot until you got to the small white sanded beach. On this beach it was obvious from their tracks and egg shells that turtles had laid eggs. Here invariably were seen Brown Pelican, Royal Tern, Magnificent Frigatebird, Black Vulture in good numbers. This my first visit to the beach also produced an Osprey. It always gives a thrill to see this magnificent bird. It wasnt tagged as far as I could see. In the bay I also saw Piping Plover and Ruddy Turnstone.
Earlier in the day I had noted Bat Falcon, Buff Breasted Hummingbird (the only one of two weeks) and Eastern Phoebe
The following day I did the same walk but went a lot further down the beach without seeing very much other than ten Black Vultureds in the air together and two Solitary Sandpipers. The only lifer of the day was a Bank Swallow around the hotel grounds
The first day of October was stormy with the sea having some large waves. This drove a Masked Booby into view and there was good numbers of Frigatebirds and a couple of Royal Terns evident. From the tower I had seen blue-grey gnatcatcher, orange oriel and a northern beardless tyrannulet
On the 2nd there were three young ringers using the base of the tower as a base. They told me of a cinnamon hummingbird they had ringed. They pointed me in the direction of scrub euphonia a delightful little bird and showed me two Nothern Waterthrushes that they ringed. I saw an Osprey in this area during late afternoon - probably the same as a couple of days ago
On the third I took the path towards Actun Chen caves but became aware of security guards looking after patches of real estate that was due for development. The highlight of this walk was a stunning Lineated Woodpecker. Several little brown jobs were not identified in the foliage. Later during the day I saw the Osprey again and a Grey Plover in the little bay. A Great & a Little Blue Heron were unusually around this area
On the 4th we actually visited the caves at Aktun Chen which were fascinating. Here we saw Cave Swallows and many f the parrots and snakes which they kept in there small nature reserve. Later in the day I noted yellow-throated warbler in the hotel grounds. This was another stunning little bird
On the 5th we had a trip to the mayan temples at Coba. If I had time I sure this area would have produced some good birds. All that I identfied was a Pale Vented Pigeon and some alligators in Coba Lake. What was frightening here was the way local kids liked to stroke their heads!!!!!
The 6th saw me in the bay again. It seemed very English with the Grey Plover here again along with eight Dunlin and two Turnstone. The Osprey was present here again
The penultimate day was quiet in the bay with the plover driven off by the previous afternoons thunderstorm(?). The Pelican and Royal Tern was still present. The Osprey that was present this day had different markings to the one seen on the previous four occasions. I did also spot a Yellow-Crowned Night Heron near the Akumal Hotel
All in all this a great value holiday with some excellent bird watching
thrown in. My count was only 60 species with 41 being lifers
alphabetical list of sightings below
# denotes lifer
bank swallow # - 30th
bat falcon # - 29th
bay brested warbler # - 26th
belted kingfisher - 30th, 2nd & 7th
black swift # - 26th & 3rd
black vulture # - every day in good numbers
blue-grey gnatcatcher # - 1st
bronzed cowbird # - 26th
brown jay # - 25th
brown pelican # - 2 or 3 most days at the beach
buff bellied hummingbird # - 29th 1 only
cattle egret - at airport but may have been snowy egret
cave swallow # - 3 or 4 at Aktun Chen
eastern kingbird # - fairly regular in the hotel grounds
eastern phobe # - 1 on the 29th
golden-fronted woodpecker #- 3rd & 6th
great blue heron 3rd & 6th
great kiskadee # - 28th
great tailed grackle # - common everywhere
grey kingbird - # 27th & 6th
grey plover - 3rd & 6th
grey-brested martin # - most days
hooded oriel # - very beautiful and seen every day in good numbers
least sandpiper # - 8th small reservoir
lesser yellowlegs - 8th small reservoir
lineated woodpecker # - on path to Aktun Chen 3rd
little blue heron - fairly regular around the resort
magnificent frigatebird - in small numbers over the sea
masked booby # - just one on the 1st
melodious blackbird # - most days around hotel
northern rough-winged swallow # - occasional around the hotel
northern beardless tyrannulet # - 1 on the 1st
northern waterthrush - two in the hand 2nd
orange oriel # - 1st & 6th
osprey - 29th 2nd 3rd 6th (probably same bird) 7th (different bird)
pale vented pigeon # - 1 at Coba on the 5th
plain chachalaca # - up to 3 around tower on the 26th 29th & 1st
prothonotary warbler # - 27th
ring-billed gull # - 27th
royal tern - up to two on the 1st 3rd &7th
ruddy turnstone - fairly common
scrub euphonia # - up to eight seen on the 2nd 3rd 5th & 6th
snowy egret - odd one fairly common around the resort
social flycatcher # - abundant
solitary sandpiper - up to two on the 28th 30th & 3rd
starling - just one was a surprise on the 29th
tree swallow # - fairly common at dusk
tropical kingbird # - good numbers most days
tropical mockingbird - most common bird
white-collared swift # - one on the 26th
white-winged dove # - the odd ones around the hotel grounds
yellow-lored parrots # flocks flying north 28th 29th 30th & 2nd
yellow warbler - 25th 28th & 2nd
yellow-bellied elanie # just a single on the 25th
yellow-throated warbler # - striking bird 26th 4th & 6th
yucatan jay # - relatively easy to see, very striking
yucatan woodpecker # - more common than my sightings suggest
turkey vulture - two or three at Coba 5th and the odd one over the hotel
dunlin - 8 on the 6th
yellow-crowned night heron - 7th
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